@font-face{font-family:Golos Text Variable;font-style:normal;font-display:swap;font-weight:400 900;src:url(/_astro/golos-text-cyrillic-ext-wght-normal.hICkpzq7.woff2)format("woff2-variations");unicode-range:U+460-52F,U+1C80-1C8A,U+20B4,U+2DE0-2DFF,U+A640-A69F,U+FE2E-FE2F}@font-face{font-family:Golos Text Variable;font-style:normal;font-display:swap;font-weight:400 900;src:url(/_astro/golos-text-cyrillic-wght-normal.mKek_fSS.woff2)format("woff2-variations");unicode-range:U+301,U+400-45F,U+490-491,U+4B0-4B1,U+2116}@font-face{font-family:Golos Text Variable;font-style:normal;font-display:swap;font-weight:400 900;src:url(/_astro/golos-text-latin-ext-wght-normal.B-I5lbAQ.woff2)format("woff2-variations");unicode-range:U+100-2BA,U+2BD-2C5,U+2C7-2CC,U+2CE-2D7,U+2DD-2FF,U+304,U+308,U+329,U+1D00-1DBF,U+1E00-1E9F,U+1EF2-1EFF,U+2020,U+20A0-20AB,U+20AD-20C0,U+2113,U+2C60-2C7F,U+A720-A7FF}@font-face{font-family:Golos Text Variable;font-style:normal;font-display:swap;font-weight:400 900;src:url(/_astro/golos-text-latin-wght-normal.BS5oQT7X.woff2)format("woff2-variations");unicode-range:U+??,U+131,U+152-153,U+2BB-2BC,U+2C6,U+2DA,U+2DC,U+304,U+308,U+329,U+2000-206F,U+20AC,U+2122,U+2191,U+2193,U+2212,U+2215,U+FEFF,U+FFFD}@font-face{font-family:Old Standard TT;font-style:normal;font-display:swap;font-weight:400;src:url(/_astro/old-standard-tt-latin-400-normal.CksAFory.woff2)format("woff2"),url(/_astro/old-standard-tt-latin-400-normal.CEoEX30F.woff)format("woff")}@font-face{font-family:Old Standard TT;font-style:normal;font-display:swap;font-weight:700;src:url(/_astro/old-standard-tt-latin-700-normal.DLkH_MDP.woff2)format("woff2"),url(/_astro/old-standard-tt-latin-700-normal.Bw7EIiLL.woff)format("woff")}@font-face{font-family:Old Standard TT;font-style:italic;font-display:swap;font-weight:400;src:url(/_astro/old-standard-tt-latin-400-italic.CCwC87fu.woff2)format("woff2"),url(/_astro/old-standard-tt-latin-400-italic.CQu5L45y.woff)format("woff")}@font-face{font-family:PT Mono;font-style:normal;font-display:swap;font-weight:400;src:url(/_astro/pt-mono-latin-400-normal.3-3stVoC.woff2)format("woff2"),url(/_astro/pt-mono-latin-400-normal.CW_sYFHq.woff)format("woff")}@font-face{font-family:Neucha;font-style:normal;font-display:swap;font-weight:400;src:url(/_astro/neucha-latin-400-normal.ClN4lHCh.woff2)format("woff2"),url(/_astro/neucha-latin-400-normal.BKqh4hRb.woff)format("woff")}:root{--paper:#fbfbfa;--ink:#15171a;--muted:#5c626b;--blue:#1d40ae;--hair:#d9dbde;--soft:#f1f2f3;--body:"Golos Text Variable", sans-serif;--serif:"Old Standard TT", Georgia, serif;--mono:"PT Mono", monospace;--hand:"Neucha", cursive}*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:1.5rem}body{background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:17px/1.65 var(--body);margin:0}picture{display:block}img{max-width:100%;height:auto;display:block}a{color:var(--blue);text-underline-offset:4px;text-decoration-thickness:1px}a:hover{text-decoration-thickness:2px}button,input,select,textarea{font:inherit}button,select{cursor:pointer}button,a,input,select,summary{touch-action:manipulation}button{border-radius:0}a:focus-visible,button:focus-visible,input:focus-visible,select:focus-visible,summary:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--blue);outline-offset:4px}h1,h2,h3,h4{font-family:var(--serif);text-wrap:balance;margin:0 0 .65em;font-weight:400;line-height:1.12}h1{letter-spacing:-.035em;font-size:clamp(2.7rem,5.8vw,5.8rem)}h2{letter-spacing:-.025em;font-size:clamp(2rem,3.3vw,3.2rem)}h3{font-size:1.65rem}p{margin:0 0 1.1em}ul,ol{padding-left:1.25rem}li{margin:.35em 0}main{min-height:60vh}.wrap{max-width:1280px;margin:auto;padding:0 40px}.skip{z-index:99;background:var(--paper);padding:12px;position:absolute;top:-150px;left:12px}.skip:focus{top:12px}.site-header{border-bottom:1px solid var(--hair)}.masthead{justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:20px;padding-top:20px;padding-bottom:20px;display:flex}.wordmark{letter-spacing:-1px;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink);font-size:26px;font-weight:850;line-height:1;text-decoration:none}.utilities{align-items:center;gap:25px;font-size:14px;display:flex}.utilities a{color:inherit}.menu-toggle{border:1px solid var(--ink);background:0 0;padding:8px 12px;display:none}.main-nav{border-top:1px solid var(--hair);flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;gap:18px;padding-top:14px;padding-bottom:14px;font-size:14px;font-weight:600;display:flex}.main-nav a{color:var(--ink);white-space:nowrap;text-decoration:none}.main-nav a:hover,.main-nav a[aria-current=page]{color:var(--blue);text-decoration:underline}.site-footer{border-top:1px solid var(--ink);margin-top:90px;padding:38px 0 25px}.footer-grid{grid-template-columns:2fr 1fr 1fr;gap:50px;display:grid}.footer-grid p{max-width:440px}.footer-links{align-content:start;gap:9px;font-size:14px;display:grid}.footer-bottom{border-top:1px solid var(--hair);color:var(--muted);justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;margin-top:30px;padding-top:20px;font-size:13px;display:flex}.muted{color:var(--muted)}.small{font-size:14px}.mono{font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.9em}.button{border:1px solid var(--ink);background:var(--ink);color:#fff;justify-content:center;align-items:center;min-height:44px;padding:10px 18px;font-size:14px;font-weight:600;line-height:1.4;text-decoration:none;display:inline-flex}.button:hover{background:var(--blue);border-color:var(--blue);color:#fff}.button.secondary{color:var(--ink);border-color:var(--hair);background:0 0}.button.secondary:hover{border-color:var(--ink)}.actions{flex-wrap:wrap;gap:12px;display:flex}.breadcrumb{color:var(--muted);flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;margin:0;padding:20px 0;font-size:12px;list-style:none;display:flex}.breadcrumb li{margin:0}.breadcrumb li+li:before{content:"/";color:var(--muted);padding-right:8px}.breadcrumb a{color:inherit}.page-intro{max-width:850px;padding:35px 0 45px}.page-intro .lead{max-width:720px}.lead{font-size:clamp(1.05rem,1.8vw,1.25rem);line-height:1.55}.section{border-top:1px solid var(--hair);padding:56px 0}.section-head{justify-content:space-between;align-items:baseline;gap:24px;margin-bottom:26px;display:flex}.section-head h2{margin-bottom:0}.section-head a{font-size:14px}.polaroid{border:1px solid var(--hair);background:#fff;margin:0;padding:10px 10px 6px;transform:rotate(-1deg);box-shadow:2px 3px #d9dbde}.polaroid:nth-child(2n){transform:rotate(1deg)}.polaroid img{aspect-ratio:4/3;object-fit:cover;width:100%}.polaroid figcaption{font:22px/1.4 var(--hand);padding:10px 6px 4px}.caption{color:var(--muted);padding-top:8px;font-size:12px}.cards{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:36px 28px;display:grid}.destination-card{border-bottom:1px solid var(--hair);min-width:0;padding-bottom:20px}.destination-card>a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}.destination-card img{aspect-ratio:3/2;object-fit:cover;width:100%;margin-bottom:16px}.destination-card h3{margin:8px 0;font-size:1.8rem}.destination-card p{margin-bottom:0;font-size:14px}.destination-card .card-detail{font-family:var(--mono);color:var(--muted);justify-content:space-between;gap:12px;font-size:11px;display:flex}.editorial-list{margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none}.editorial-list li{border-top:1px solid var(--hair);grid-template-columns:1fr auto;gap:20px;margin:0;padding:20px 0;display:grid}.editorial-list a{font-family:var(--serif);color:var(--ink);font-size:1.5rem;line-height:1.2;text-decoration:none}.editorial-list a:hover{text-decoration:underline}.editorial-list p{margin:8px 0 0;font-size:14px}.editorial-list .label{font:11px/1.6 var(--mono);color:var(--muted)}.filters{border-block:1px solid var(--hair);flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:end;gap:16px;margin:0 0 24px;padding:20px 0;display:flex}label{gap:6px;font-size:14px;font-weight:600;display:grid}input,select,textarea{min-height:44px;color:var(--ink);background:#fff;border:1px solid #9399a2;border-radius:0;width:100%;min-width:0;padding:10px 12px}label input,label select{font-weight:400}.filters label:first-child{flex:2 230px}.filters label{flex:150px}.status{min-height:24px;font-size:14px}.empty{border-block:1px solid var(--hair);padding:40px 0}[hidden]{display:none!important}.article-hero{grid-template-columns:7fr 5fr;align-items:center;gap:55px;padding:28px 0 42px;display:grid}.article-hero h1{font-size:clamp(2.6rem,4.6vw,4.8rem)}.article-hero figure{margin:0}.article-hero .hero-photo{aspect-ratio:4/5;object-fit:cover;width:100%}.meta{color:var(--muted);margin:20px 0;font-size:12px}.meta a{color:inherit}.facts{border-block:1px solid var(--hair);grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:20px;margin:25px 0;padding:22px 0;display:grid}.facts dt{color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:7px;font-size:12px}.facts dd{font:13px/1.65 var(--mono);margin:0}.local-nav{border-block:1px solid var(--hair);flex-wrap:wrap;gap:12px 24px;padding:14px 0;font-size:14px;display:flex}.local-nav a[aria-current=page]{color:var(--ink);font-weight:600;text-decoration:none}.reading-layout{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,800px) minmax(180px,1fr);gap:70px;padding-top:50px;display:grid}.prose{min-width:0}.prose section{margin-bottom:48px}.prose h2{font-size:2.35rem}.prose h3{margin-top:30px;font-size:1.75rem}.aside{font-size:13px}.aside h2{font-size:1.55rem}.toc{margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none}.toc li{border-bottom:1px solid var(--hair);padding:7px 0}.toc a{color:var(--ink)}.note{border-block:1px solid var(--ink);margin:28px 0;padding:22px 0}.note p:last-child{margin-bottom:0}.data-table{border-collapse:collapse;text-align:left;width:100%;font-size:14px}.table-scroll{max-width:100%;margin:22px 0;overflow-x:auto}.data-table th,.data-table td{text-align:left;vertical-align:top;border-bottom:1px solid var(--hair);padding:14px 16px 14px 0}.data-table thead th{border-bottom-color:var(--ink);font-size:14px;font-weight:600}.data-table tbody th{font-size:inherit;font-weight:600}.data-table td{min-width:120px}.data-table tbody th:first-child,.data-table tbody td:first-child{min-width:140px;font-weight:600}.sources{border-top:1px solid var(--hair);padding-top:20px;font-size:13px}.sources h2{font-size:1.6rem}.sources li{margin:10px 0}.choice{border-top:1px solid var(--hair);padding:25px 0}.choice h3{margin-top:0}.choice dl{grid-template-columns:120px 1fr;gap:8px 18px;font-size:14px;display:grid}.choice dt{font-weight:600}.choice dd{margin:0}.choice p{margin-bottom:14px}.map{background:var(--soft);border:1px solid var(--hair);width:100%;height:auto}.map text{font-family:var(--body);fill:var(--ink)}.map circle{fill:var(--blue);stroke:var(--paper);stroke-width:3px}.map path{stroke:#aaa;fill:none;stroke-width:2px}.map-note{color:var(--muted);font-size:12px}.tool-layout{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,2fr) minmax(220px,1fr);gap:55px;display:grid}.tool-fields{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:18px;display:grid}.tool-fields fieldset{border:0;border-top:1px solid var(--hair);grid-column:1/-1;margin:0;padding:20px 0}.tool-fields legend{font-family:var(--serif);padding:0 10px 0 0;font-size:1.65rem}.field-row{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:18px;display:grid}.result-panel{border-top:2px solid var(--ink);align-self:start;padding:22px 0}.result-panel .total{font:clamp(1.6rem, 4vw, 3rem)/1.3 var(--mono);overflow-wrap:anywhere}.result-panel dl{grid-template-columns:1fr auto;gap:12px;font-size:14px;display:grid}.result-panel dd{font-family:var(--mono);margin:0}.checklist{padding:0;list-style:none}.checklist li{border-bottom:1px solid var(--hair);margin:0}.checklist label{align-items:center;padding:12px 0;font-weight:400;display:flex}.checklist input{width:20px;min-height:20px;accent-color:var(--blue);margin:0 12px 0 0}.checklist input:checked+span{color:var(--muted);text-decoration:line-through}.saved-grid{gap:24px;display:grid}.saved-item{border-bottom:1px solid var(--hair);grid-template-columns:170px 1fr auto;align-items:center;gap:24px;padding-bottom:24px;display:grid}.saved-item img{aspect-ratio:3/2;object-fit:cover;width:170px}.saved-item h2{margin-bottom:8px;font-size:1.8rem}.error{color:#9b2226;font-size:14px}.consent{background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--ink);z-index:50;max-width:430px;box-shadow:3px 3px 0 var(--hair);padding:16px;font-size:13px;position:fixed;bottom:18px;right:18px}.consent .actions{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:10px;margin-top:12px;display:grid}.consent .button{padding:10px 8px;font-size:13px}.consent .status:empty,.print-only{display:none}.header-home{z-index:5;color:#fff;border:0;position:absolute;inset:0 0 auto}.header-home .wordmark,.header-home .utilities a,.header-home .main-nav a{color:#fff}.header-home .main-nav{border-color:#fff6}.header-home .menu-toggle{color:#fff;border-color:#fff}@media (width<=1100px){.main-nav{gap:12px;font-size:12px}.wrap{padding-inline:28px}.article-hero{gap:30px}.reading-layout{gap:35px}.cards{gap:28px 20px}}@media (width<=800px){.wrap{padding-inline:24px}.menu-toggle{display:block}.masthead{padding-block:18px}.main-nav{display:none}.site-header.menu-open .main-nav{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:0;padding-block:18px;display:grid}.main-nav a{padding:10px 0;font-size:14px}.header-home.menu-open{background:var(--ink)}.utilities{gap:18px}.cards{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.article-hero{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:25px}.article-hero .hero-photo{aspect-ratio:3/4}.reading-layout{display:block}.aside{margin-top:25px}.aside .toc{display:none}.tool-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr}.result-panel{order:-1}.footer-grid{grid-template-columns:2fr 1fr;gap:25px}.footer-grid>div:last-child{grid-column:2}.facts{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:14px}.facts>div:last-child{grid-column:1/-1}}@media (width<=580px){body{font-size:18px}.wrap{padding-inline:20px}.wordmark{font-size:22px}.utilities{gap:14px;font-size:12px}.utilities .search-label{display:none}.masthead{gap:12px}.menu-toggle{min-height:38px;padding:6px 9px;font-size:12px}.article-hero{padding-top:16px;display:block}.article-hero figure{margin-top:28px}.article-hero .hero-photo{aspect-ratio:3/2}.article-hero h1{font-size:2.65rem}.page-intro{padding:20px 0 32px}.section{padding:36px 0}.section-head{display:block}.section-head a{margin-top:12px;display:inline-block}.cards{gap:26px 16px}.destination-card h3{font-size:1.4rem}.destination-card .card-detail{font-size:10px;display:block}.destination-card p{font-size:12px}.destination-card img{margin-bottom:12px}.polaroid{padding:7px 7px 4px}.polaroid figcaption{font-size:20px}.footer-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:28px}.footer-grid>div:first-child{grid-column:1/-1}.footer-grid>div:last-child{grid-column:auto}.footer-bottom{display:block}.reading-layout{padding-top:32px}.prose h2{font-size:2rem}.choice dl{grid-template-columns:95px 1fr;gap:8px 12px}.field-row,.tool-fields{grid-template-columns:1fr}.saved-item{grid-template-columns:90px 1fr;gap:15px}.saved-item img{width:90px}.saved-item .button{grid-column:2;justify-self:start}.saved-item h2{font-size:1.5rem}.consent{bottom:12px;left:12px;right:12px}.editorial-list li{gap:10px}.editorial-list a{font-size:1.35rem}.editorial-list .label{max-width:85px;font-size:10px}.filters{gap:12px}.filters label{flex-basis:130px}.facts{font-size:13px}}@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*{transition:none!important;animation:none!important}}@media print{.site-header,.site-footer,.aside,.local-nav,.actions,.consent,.filters,.save-button,.no-print{display:none!important}.wrap{max-width:none;padding:0}body{color:#000;background:#fff;font-size:11pt}.article-hero{display:block}.article-hero figure{max-width:300px}.reading-layout,.tool-layout{display:block}.prose h2{font-size:20pt}.print-only{display:block}.choice{break-inside:avoid}a{color:inherit}.page-intro{padding:10px 0}.section{padding:20px 0}.result-panel{break-inside:avoid}}body{font-size:18px;line-height:1.6}.fact-source{font:12px/1.5 var(--sans);color:var(--muted);margin-top:8px;display:block}.journal-nav{z-index:20;gap:8px 20px;position:relative}.nav-group{min-width:0;position:relative}.nav-enhanced .nav-group:has([aria-expanded=true]){z-index:30}.nav-heading{align-items:center;gap:2px;min-height:44px;display:flex}.nav-heading>a{white-space:normal}.nav-heading button{color:inherit;background:0 0;border:0;place-items:center;min-width:44px;min-height:44px;display:grid}.nav-heading button[hidden]{display:none}.nav-prepared .nav-heading button[hidden]{display:grid!important}.nav-heading button[aria-expanded=true] svg{transform:rotate(180deg)}.nav-submenu{gap:0;padding:12px 0;font-weight:400;display:grid}.nav-prepared .nav-submenu{display:none}.nav-enhanced .nav-submenu:not([hidden]){display:grid}.nav-submenu a{white-space:normal;padding:10px 16px;font-size:15px;line-height:1.4;display:block}.nav-enhanced .nav-submenu{z-index:31;border:1px solid var(--hair);background:var(--paper);width:245px;color:var(--ink);position:absolute;top:100%;left:0}.nav-enhanced .nav-group:nth-last-child(-n+3) .nav-submenu{left:auto;right:0}.nav-enhanced .nav-submenu[hidden]{display:none}.header-home .nav-submenu a{color:var(--ink)}html:not(.nav-prepared) .site-header .main-nav{align-items:flex-start;display:flex}.eyebrow{font:12px/1.5 var(--mono);color:var(--muted);margin:0 0 10px}.hub-intro{grid-template-columns:5fr 6fr;align-items:center;gap:55px;padding:20px 0 44px;display:grid}.hub-intro h1{font-size:clamp(2.7rem,4.4vw,4.6rem)}.hub-deck{font:clamp(1.35rem, 2.3vw, 2rem)/1.2 var(--serif);max-width:25ch}.hub-intro>div>p:not(.eyebrow):not(.hub-deck){max-width:48ch;font-size:17px}.hub-main-photo{margin:0}.hub-main-photo img{aspect-ratio:4/3;object-fit:cover;width:100%}.hub-local{margin-bottom:5px}.choice-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:28px;display:grid}.choice-grid.has-five-choices{grid-template-columns:repeat(6,minmax(0,1fr))}.choice-grid.has-five-choices article{grid-column:span 2}.choice-grid.has-five-choices article:nth-last-child(-n+2){grid-column:span 3}.choice-grid article{border-top:1px solid var(--ink);padding-top:16px}.choice-grid h3{margin-top:14px;font-size:1.55rem}.choice-grid a,.journal-features h3 a,.journal-directory h3 a{color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none}.choice-grid a:hover,.journal-features h3 a:hover,.journal-directory h3 a:hover{text-decoration:underline}.choice-grid p{font-size:18px;line-height:1.6}.choice-number{font:13px var(--mono);color:var(--blue)}.journal-features{grid-template-columns:1.4fr 1fr;gap:38px;display:grid}.journal-features article{min-width:0}.journal-features img{aspect-ratio:8/5;object-fit:cover;width:100%;margin-bottom:20px}.journal-features h3{font-size:2rem}.journal-features p:not(.eyebrow){max-width:52ch;font-size:16px}.journal-features article:nth-child(2){padding-top:55px}.journal-features article:nth-child(3){padding-right:16%}.image-link{display:block}.national-map{margin:30px 0}.national-map svg{border-block:1px solid var(--hair);width:100%;max-height:500px}.national-map text{font:13px var(--mono);fill:var(--muted)}.region-links{flex-wrap:wrap;gap:16px 25px;display:flex}.region-links a{align-items:center;gap:12px;min-height:44px;display:inline-flex}.journal-directory{gap:26px;display:grid}.journal-directory article{border-bottom:1px solid var(--hair);grid-template-columns:minmax(140px,280px) minmax(0,1fr);gap:28px;padding-bottom:26px;display:grid}.journal-directory article[hidden]{display:none}.journal-directory img{aspect-ratio:8/5;object-fit:cover;width:100%}.journal-directory h3{margin-bottom:12px;font-size:1.75rem}.journal-directory p{max-width:67ch;font-size:16px}.journal-directory .directory-facts{font:12px/1.6 var(--mono);color:var(--muted);margin:0}.region-directory{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:35px;margin-top:45px;display:grid}.region-directory li{font-size:16px}.before-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:50px;display:grid}.before-grid article{border-top:1px solid var(--ink);padding-top:22px}.before-grid p{max-width:55ch}.reading-layout{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,720px) minmax(200px,1fr);gap:65px}.prose p,.prose li{max-width:65ch}.prose .inline-photo{margin:30px 0 40px}.inline-photo img{aspect-ratio:8/5;object-fit:cover;width:100%}.inline-photo figcaption{max-width:65ch;font-size:13px}.route-block{border-block:1px solid var(--ink);margin-bottom:40px;padding:24px 0}.route-days>article{border-top:1px solid var(--hair);padding:24px 0}.route-days h3{margin:0 0 16px!important}.route-days dl{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:20px;display:grid}.route-days dt{font:12px var(--mono);color:var(--muted)}.route-days dd{margin:8px 0 0;font-size:15px}.route-map svg{width:100%;height:auto}.route-map text{font:11px var(--mono);fill:var(--ink)}.route-map{break-inside:avoid;margin:24px 0}.reading-layout .aside{align-self:start;max-height:calc(100vh - 40px);position:sticky;top:20px;overflow:auto}.article-hero .destination-photo img,.article-hero>.polaroid img{aspect-ratio:4/5;object-fit:cover;width:100%}@media (width<=1024px){.journal-nav{justify-content:flex-start;gap:6px 18px}.hub-intro{gap:30px}.choice-grid,.choice-grid.has-five-choices{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}.choice-grid.has-five-choices article:nth-child(n){grid-column:auto}.choice-grid.has-five-choices article:last-child{grid-column:1/-1}.reading-layout{gap:35px}.nav-heading>a{font-size:13px}}@media (width<=800px){.nav-prepared .site-header .main-nav{display:none}.nav-prepared .site-header.menu-open .main-nav{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:10px 22px;display:grid}.nav-enhanced .nav-submenu{border:0;border-top:1px solid var(--hair);width:auto;position:static}.nav-heading>a{font-size:15px}.nav-heading{justify-content:space-between}.nav-submenu a{padding-left:0}.hub-intro{grid-template-columns:1fr;padding-top:12px}.hub-intro h1{max-width:19ch}.hub-main-photo img{aspect-ratio:8/5}.hub-intro>div>p:not(.eyebrow):not(.hub-deck){max-width:65ch}.hub-deck{max-width:45ch}.journal-features{gap:28px}.reading-layout{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}.reading-layout .aside{border-bottom:1px solid var(--hair);order:-1;max-height:none;padding-bottom:25px;position:static}.toc{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:5px 25px;display:grid}.aside .toc li{margin:0}.region-directory{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}.journal-directory article{grid-template-columns:180px minmax(0,1fr);gap:20px}}@media (width<=580px){.journal-hub .section{padding-top:35px;padding-bottom:20px}.hub-intro{gap:25px}.hub-deck{font-size:1.5rem}.hub-local{gap:8px 18px}.choice-grid{gap:24px 18px}.choice-grid h3{font-size:1.35rem}.choice-grid,.choice-grid.has-five-choices{grid-template-columns:1fr}.choice-grid p{font-size:18px}.journal-features{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:28px}.journal-features article:nth-child(2),.journal-features article:nth-child(3){padding:0}.journal-features h3{font-size:1.8rem}.journal-directory article{grid-template-columns:110px minmax(0,1fr);gap:16px}.journal-directory h3{font-size:1.4rem}.journal-directory .eyebrow{font-size:10px}.journal-directory p{font-size:15px}.journal-directory .directory-facts{font-size:11px}.journal-directory img{aspect-ratio:3/4}.region-directory,.before-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:25px}.toc{grid-template-columns:1fr}.route-days dl{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:14px}.prose h2{font-size:1.9rem}}@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}}@media print{.journal-nav,.hub-local,.journal-directory,.before-grid,.print-page,.share-trips{display:none!important}.reading-layout{display:block}.reading-layout .aside{display:none}.prose{max-width:none}.inline-photo{display:none}.route-days>article{break-inside:avoid}.route-block{border-color:#666}.route-days dl{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr)}.route-map svg{max-height:180mm}.route-days p,.route-days li{font-size:10pt}.route-days h3{font-size:16pt}.route-days{font-size:10pt}body{color:#111;background:#fff}a{color:#111}}.prose .photo-portrait.inline-photo{max-width:440px;margin-inline:auto}.prose .photo-portrait.inline-photo img{aspect-ratio:var(--photo-ratio);height:auto}.comparison-photos{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:28px;margin:30px 0;display:grid}.comparison-photos figure{margin:0}.comparison-photos img{aspect-ratio:4/3;object-fit:cover;width:100%}.comparison-photos h3{margin-top:15px}.manual-share textarea{width:100%}@media (width<=580px){.comparison-photos{gap:18px}.comparison-photos h3{font-size:1.3rem}}.home-journal-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:34px;display:grid}.home-journal-grid a{color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none}.home-journal-grid h3{margin-top:20px}.home-journal-grid p{font-size:16px}.home-journal-grid img{aspect-ratio:8/5;object-fit:cover;width:100%}.text-feature figure{margin:0 0 20px}.text-feature img{aspect-ratio:8/5;object-fit:cover;width:100%}#share-text{width:100%;max-width:750px}@media (width<=800px){.home-journal-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}}@media (width<=580px){.home-journal-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}}.route-days .route-logistics{display:block}.route-logistics>div{grid-template-columns:140px minmax(0,1fr);align-items:baseline;gap:20px;padding:7px 0;display:grid}.route-logistics dt,.route-logistics dd{margin:0;line-height:1.6}@media (width<=580px){.route-logistics>div{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:3px}}@media print{.route-print-page .article-hero figure,.route-print-page>.section,.route-print-page .prose>section:not(.route-block):not(#current-access):not(.sources){display:none!important}.route-print-page .article-hero{margin:0;padding:0 0 8pt}.route-print-page h1{margin:0 0 8pt;font-size:24pt;line-height:1.1}.route-print-page p,.route-print-page li,.route-print-page dd{font-size:10pt;line-height:1.35}.route-print-page p{margin:0 0 6pt}.route-print-page .meta{font-size:8pt}.route-print-page .prose h2{break-after:avoid;margin:10pt 0 6pt;font-size:15pt}.route-print-page .route-block{margin:0 0 10pt;padding:8pt 0}.route-print-page #booking-order{break-inside:avoid}.route-print-page .route-map{margin:8pt 0}.route-print-page .route-map svg{max-height:62mm}.route-print-page .map-place-list{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:4pt 14pt;padding-left:14pt;display:grid}.route-print-page .map-place-list li{font-size:8.5pt}.route-print-page .route-days>article{padding:8pt 0}.route-print-page .route-days h3{break-after:avoid;font-size:12.5pt;margin:0 0 6pt!important}.route-print-page .route-days dl{gap:8pt;margin:6pt 0}.route-print-page .route-days dt{font-size:8.5pt}.route-print-page .route-days dd{margin-top:3pt}.route-print-page .route-logistics>div{grid-template-columns:96pt minmax(0,1fr);gap:8pt;padding:2pt 0}.route-print-page .sources a[href^="https://"]:after{content:" (" attr(href) ")";overflow-wrap:anywhere;font-size:8pt}}@media (width>=1101px){.nav-enhanced .journal-nav{flex-wrap:nowrap;align-items:center;gap:8px 6px}.nav-heading>a{white-space:nowrap;font-size:14px}.nav-heading button{min-width:32px}}@media (width>=801px) and (width<=1100px){.menu-toggle{display:block}.nav-prepared .site-header .main-nav{display:none}.nav-prepared .site-header.menu-open .main-nav{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:10px 22px;padding-block:18px;display:grid}.nav-enhanced .nav-submenu{border:0;border-top:1px solid var(--hair);width:auto;position:static}.nav-heading{justify-content:space-between}.nav-heading>a{font-size:15px}.header-home.menu-open{background:var(--ink)}}.route-days .route-day-photo{margin:20px 0 24px}.route-days .route-day-photo img{aspect-ratio:16/9;object-fit:cover;width:100%}.route-days>article{scroll-margin-top:30px}@media print{.route-print-page .route-day-photo{float:right;width:42mm;margin:0 0 4pt 10pt}.route-print-page .route-day-photo img{object-fit:cover;width:42mm;height:24mm}.route-print-page .route-day-photo figcaption{margin:3pt 0;font-size:6.5pt;line-height:1.2}.route-print-page .route-days>article:after{content:"";clear:both;display:block}.route-print-page .route-days .route-logistics dd{margin:0}.route-print-page .route-map .geo-map{margin:6pt 0}.route-print-page .route-map .geo-map-canvas{width:110mm;margin:0 auto}.route-print-page .geo-map-key{columns:3;font-size:7pt}.route-print-page .geo-map-key a[href^=https\:]{display:none}.route-print-page .geo-map .caption{font-size:7pt}}.nav-extra[data-astro-cid-l27yu5pa]{display:none}@media (width<=1100px){.nav-extra[data-astro-cid-l27yu5pa]{border-top:1px solid var(--hair);flex-wrap:wrap;grid-column:1/-1;gap:8px 22px;width:100%;padding:15px 0;display:flex}.nav-extra[data-astro-cid-l27yu5pa] a[data-astro-cid-l27yu5pa]{align-items:center;min-height:44px;display:inline-flex}}@media (width<=800px){.desktop-utility[data-astro-cid-ju4pidww]{display:none}}.search-icon[data-astro-cid-ju4pidww]{display:none}.privacy-settings[data-astro-cid-ju4pidww]{color:var(--blue);text-align:left;text-underline-offset:4px;background:0 0;border:0;min-height:24px;padding:0;font-size:14px;text-decoration:underline}@media (width<=580px){.search-icon[data-astro-cid-ju4pidww]{display:block}}